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Hi Philip
Posted by 'alanrr' on 21 Apr 2011 @ 16:28


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alanrr
Joined: August 2001
Total Posts: 491
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Yes.

Look down the sides and smooth off the casting marks, some are quite bad.

I also found some were a bit 'thick' where the stud goes into the blade and a dressing of the flat faces of the blade with some fine wet and dry on a flat surface seems to do the trick.

Even then, some of them take a lap to work properly and probably could do with a bit more off the faces.

I know they say 'no removal of material' but if they can't make the bloody thing correctly, what the hell?

make sure there is no Loctite on the stud, where it goes through the baseplate.

Also make sure that the hole in the gasket is large enough to allow the flange of the blade to pass through with clearance.

Line up the blade with a steel rule to make sure it is parallel with the two bolt holes.

Our best powervalves are the old type and really worn.

It doesn't seem to matter if the blade is slack in the cylinder as the exhaust gas has nowhere to go, it just inflates the bellow.

I clean it at least after every two heats but it does depend on the oil you use.

Shell X was always very clean but castor/synthetic mixes seem to produce a lot of carbon, which is ok if you're trying to carbon up the piston.

Message Thread:

Powervalve - Bellows spring  by 'PhilipBaker'   (21 Apr 2011 @ 9:48)
Re: Powervalve - Bellows spring  by 'raceinstructor'   (21 Apr 2011 @ 12:20)
Re: Powervalve - Bellows spring  by 'PhilipBaker'   (21 Apr 2011 @ 13:52)
Re: Powervalve - Bellows spring  by 'raceinstructor'   (21 Apr 2011 @ 17:59)
Re: Powervalve - Bellows spring  by 'alanrr'   (21 Apr 2011 @ 13:08)
Re: Powervalve - Bellows spring  by 'PhilipBaker'   (21 Apr 2011 @ 14:07)
Hi Philip  by 'alanrr'  << You are here!
Re: Hi Philip  by 'raceinstructor'   (21 Apr 2011 @ 17:58)
Re: Hi Philip  by 'PhilipBaker'   (21 Apr 2011 @ 22:14)

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